- 26 -
- 27 -
‘‘STILL I CAME ACROSS A SURF BOARD ON
A BEACH AND A FEW TACKS WERE
JUST ENOUGH TO START THE
ADDICTIVE PROCESS...’’
Along the following days, the
wind proves more consistent
and if the waves looked shy at
first it was just an illusion! We
run to the beach and inflate
7, 8 and 9 for a wave session.
Everyone, including the frees-
tyleuse that I am, joins in with
the team of surfers to enjoy
the rather entertaining swell.
Despite the general amuse-
ment my freestyle side of me
finally takes over pushing me
back to lagoon to continue to
get more used to this choppy
spot. Still I came across a
surf board on a beach and a
few tacks were just enough to
start the addictive process...
1...,6-7,8-9,10-11,12-13,14-15,16-17,18-19,20-21,22-23,24-25 28-29,30-31,32-33,34-35,36-37,38-39,40-41,42-43,44-45,46-47,...104